the avid cruiser

advice on cruising: personal, passionate, inspired and informative 



August 12, 2009

Stockholm Sightseeing: Viking Walking Tour

Promising a "painless" Swedish history lesson from the Ice Age to IKEA, our Viking guide "Sigrid the Small But Dangerous" makes exploring Gamla Stan, Stockholm's Old Town, fun and informative. Offered daily during the summer at 11:30 and 2:30. SEK125. 80 minutes. For more info, visit http://www.gallivantproductions.com. Highly recommended.

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August 5, 2009

Copenhagen: Avoid Rush Hour

Copenhagen's wonderful public transportation network is often overwhelmed from Kastrup to Malmo during rush hour, when Swedes who work in the Danish capital are returning home after work.

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August 5, 2009

AMAWATERWAYS: In Belgrade

Unfortunately, I fly from here today, but I will return in October. Belgrade appears to be a fascinating former Eastern Bloc city slowly emerging from its past. I'm sure it will be beautiful in the fall. Join me then. Next stop, Stockholm.

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August 4, 2009

AMAWATERWAYS: At The Market In Vukovar, Croatia

At the far left, the 19-year-old says she loves living in Croatia.
 
"Because you have family here?" I ask. "Or is it the lifestyle?"
 
She laughs, "It's not the lifestyle."
 
Her family has a farm near the village where AMAWATERWAYS' Amacello has docked today. They raise peaches and grapes and also produce wines.
 
The young girl works at the market to sell her family's fruits. She also studies. When she graduates college, she plans to work with preschool children.
 
Her friends (in the middle, age 15, and too shy to speak English and on the far right, 19, and studying law) come with her to work at the market.
 
None of them have traveled much, but they hope to move to a bigger city one day — never, however, too far away from home.
 
I felt fortunate to have this conversation with the girls. That's one of the great things about river cruising. You are a traveler, not a tourist, and certainly not part of a mass tourism experience.
 
There were few tourists at the market and, in fact, few in Vukovar. It is still a place that is unspoiled.

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August 4, 2009

AMA Waterways: Touring Vukovar, Croatia

On an included city tour, we see the destruction still apparent from the wars of the early 1990s.

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August 3, 2009

The Razor’s Edge: Who’s The Best? Luxury Cruise Lines Square Off

Many of you who visit this web site, as well as people I meet during my travels, have asked me in multiple forums — through social media, on this site and in person — which luxury cruise line is the best? Of course, there is no easy answer, because the luxury lines are all so good at what they deliver. That said, before you reach the final period indicating the end of this article, you will have your answer. 

My answer comes with caveats, however. When it comes to comparing the luxury cruise lines, I find the differences between them are as thin as a razor’s edge. After all, each of the luxury lines hangs its hat (hoists its life buoy?) on the same set of values: 1) superior service; 2) excellent cuisine; 3) plush public areas and staterooms; and 4) exotic destinations. 

When I refer to luxury lines, I’m thinking of Crystal Cruises, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Seabourn Cruise Line, Silversea Cruises — and one you may not be thinking of, SeaDream Yacht Club.

I’ve sailed on all of these cruise lines in the past few months, and my absolute favorite among them — sorry to disappoint you — tends to be whichever one I am sailing on at the time. 

It’s easy for me to say that Seabourn Odyssey is my favorite, but that’s because I was on the ship as I typed these words. 

We were anchored in a small bay in Rovinj, Croatia, and just across the bay was SeaDream II. Seeing it reminded me that it was my favorite luxury vessel when I sailed on her sister, SeaDream I, in March.

Likewise, I loved Crystal when I overnighted on Symphony in Stockholm in late June (I’ve cruised her several times), adored Silversea when I cruised the Cloud in July (as I did Whisper when I sailed on her two years ago). And I remained regally impressed when on Regent Seven Seas Voyager for the third time just a couple of weeks ago. 

Each of the luxury lines excels in areas over its competitors: Crystal has the best sushi restaurant among the luxury players; Regent, the best steakhouse; SeaDream boasts the best marina.

And though I’m uncertain as to whether this has particular relevance, Silversea pours three house champagnes; Regent and Seabourn only one, and Crystal, pours none at all on a complimentary basis (except for sparkling on embarkation day).

Crystal, in fact, is in another league altogether. Its ships are larger and with two seatings for dinner. The others are all open-seating dining.  All but Crystal offers complimentary beverages, including wine, spirits and beer. And Crystal is the only luxury player where gratuities are not included in the cruise fare.

So which is the best? First, a qualification. A friend of mine, also a travel writer, posed this question to me: If you had your choice of cruising on any luxury vessel — itinerary, room type and cruise fare are not a factor — which would you choose? 

My intuition responds SeaDream Yacht Club. I like al fresco dining — without having to make reservations. In fact, I like a ship where I don’t have to make reservations at all. All but SeaDream require reservations for dining at their specialty restaurants.

I also like being able to sleep under the stars on the Balinese beds in custom-embroidered pajamas that SeaDream provides for its guests. And I like the marina. As I wrote this in Rovinj, SeaDream’s marina was in operation; Seabourn Odyssey’s was not. Moreover, SeaDream’s marina is proportionately sized to guest capacity, and with wave-runners, which I enjoy (Seabourn does not have wave-runners.)

Of course, SeaDream operates the smallest vessels among the luxury players, carrying slightly more than 100 guests on each of its two yachts. Size matters. I prefer smaller ships. 

But having intuitively answered SeaDream, I can’t emphasize strongly enough that SeaDream only edges out over the competition by an ultra-thin razor’s edge. You may not care for marinas or sleeping outdoors. 

And SeaDream certainly has its detractors. Staterooms have no balconies, bathrooms are small, the vessels lack multiple dining venues. And if you want Broadway-style entertainment on your vacation, SeaDream will disappoint you. What’s good for me may not be good for you. Also, bad weather, and all bets are off: SeaDream delivers a quality experience only in good weather, which is why the yachts sail only in the Caribbean and Mediterranean.

The point that I am trying to make here is that there are no clear winners in the luxury market — except for one, you. 

The competition is fierce, and it’s intensifying. Suddenly, with Seabourn Odyssey in the marketplace, there are 450 more luxury berths to fill each day.  Silversea introduces a new vessel later this year. 

To vie for your vacation dollars, each of the luxury players is offering steep discounts, more than 70 percent off with air included if you book during your cruise on at least one cruise line. Yes, brochure prices are inflated, but make no mistake: Luxury cruises are offering unprecedented values, which in turn creates unprecedented opportunities for you to chart your course and discover which luxury cruise line ranks among your favorites. 

I can assure you of one thing: No matter which luxury vessel you choose, it’s unlikely that you’ll step off the ship regretting your decision. They are all winners in a segment of the industry that sets stratospheric standards — and seldom disappoints.

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August 1, 2009

Seabourn Odyssey Cruises Ends In Venice

What a great cruise, what an ending. My flight to Budapest is in a few hours, and so for now, I have parked myself at a charming, canal-side table (outdoors) for an espresso and aqua frizzante. Gondoliers paddle by only at arm's length away. Inside Grecia & Oriente Caffe, two men sit at the window, sharing a bowl of chips and sipping what appears to be Bellinis. Ah, La Dolce Vita.

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July 31, 2009

Top Reasons To Cruise The New Seabourn Odyssey

Yes, you want to cruise on the new Seabourn Odyssey. Why? For starters, Odyssey is not only the newest luxury ship afloat but also a totally new concept for Seabourn Cruise Line. There’s quite a lot that will please long-time Seabourn cruisers as well as much to impress those new to Seabourn. 

If you’re comparing Seabourn Odyssey to its competitors, here are a few reasons why you may want to choose Odyssey. This is not meant to be a full review of the ship, rather this is a list of a few things that distinguishes Odyssey from her competitors, which includes her own sisters, Pride, Legend and Spirit as well as small ships from Regent, Silversea and SeaDream. 

1. Seabourn Odyssey is where South Beach meets Palm Beach. The Restaurant, for example, would not look out of place in South Beach’s trendy hotels while the Colonnade (restaurant) could pass the muster in any of those plush Palm Beach country clubs. Quite simply, Seabourn Odyssey marries the best of South Florida’s trendiest beach resorts with one of America's poshest cities.

2. Seabourn Odyssey is just so darn new. Let’s face it, the three sisters - Pride, Legend and Spirit - are classics. It was high time for a new Seabourn ship. And with newness comes innovation, such as Seabourn Square, a well-thought-out concept that serves as the ship’s hub for guest services, destination services, coffee shop, boutiques, internet cafe and library. I would not say that Odyssey was the pinnacle of luxury, because its competitors also do a good job at delivering superior experiences. But Odyssey is at the pinnacle of innovation — at least for now.

3. Seabourn Odyssey is an attractive ship. Yes, there are many beautiful ships, but Seabourn Odyssey’s public areas and suites are real stunners, and not in that “look at me now” sort of way. Staterooms are done in earth tones, and bathrooms are arguably the most attractive and functional that I’ve seen on a luxury vessel. The public areas are beautiful also. Seabourn Odyssey is much less bold brass and gaudy glitz than it is refined style and enduring elegance.

4. Seabourn Odyssey features  a marina. Yes, its sisters do too, as do SeaDream’s twin yachts. But in the 450-passenger-and-up-luxury-ship category, Seabourn Odyssey is the only vessel to feature a marina. That said, on my sailing, the marina was overwhelmed by the number of passengers. SeaDream, in my mind, has a better marina, perhaps because there are only 100 passengers, instead of 450, vying for what is essentially the same space. In fact, as I write this, SeaDream II is anchored near Seabourn Odyssey in Rovinj, Croatia. SeaDream's marina is in operation; Odyssey's is not. On the other hand, Seabourn Odyssey, being a larger ship than the SeaDream vessels, features multiple dining venues, high-energy entertainment, staterooms with balconies and more. 

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July 31, 2009

What's Seabourn Pouring?

Seabourn pours a single house champagne, Nicolas Feuillatte. As delicious as it looks.

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July 30, 2009

Video: Seabourn Odyssey: Demanding Chef

To ensure quality control for every dish that leaves the galley, Seabourn Executive Chef Graeme Cockburn and his team taste every menu item.

Each chef brings the menu item that he or she has prepared, and the sampling begins.


If something is not right, they have about 90 minutes to adjust the dish before dinner begins. 


Cockburn says Seabourn spends more than any other cruise line on food. The budget for fruit and vegetables alone is more than $3,600 per day for the cruise I am on.

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