the avid cruiser

advice on cruising: personal, passionate, inspired and informative 

Kalmar

Jenny Roloff  
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BIG Event Coming To Denmark

Local newspapers report that Oasis of the Seas will pass Denmark at approximately 9:30 p.m. on Saturday night. And while the Avid Cruiser is excited about seeing the world's largest cruise ship on its journey to Fort Lauderdale, an event of equal importance takes place the night before.

At precisely 8:59 p.m. Tuborg's seasonal Christmas beer will be delivered by horse and carriage to Skovshoved Hotel, where I'll be staying. For more about this delicious beverage, click on http://www.carlsberggroup.com/brands/Pages/Tuborgjulebryg.aspx

By the way, for Oasis to pass under Storebaelt Bridge,http://www.storebaelt.dk/english/bridge, the ship's funnels must be dismantled, and even then, there will be only a 1.5-meter clearance. The horse and buggy delivering the Christmas beer requires no dismantling to reach the hotel with boxes of beer.

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How To Make Flying With The Grand Inquisitors A Better Experience

[The following article includes tips to help cruise passengers on long-haul flights find ways to make the journey tolerable.]

My trip from Helsingborg, Sweden, to Asheville, North Carolina, began with a ferry crossing to Hamlet's Castle, was interrupted by a bomb threat that turned out to be an electric toothbrush inadvertently activated in someone's unattended luggage, and ended with the weather delays that occur so frequently at Atlanta's International Airport that frustrated passengers often mock the hometown carrier by conferring an unfortunate acronym, Doesn't Ever Leave The Airport.

Coming from the hinterlands of Sweden, via Helsinki, mine was a particularly long and arduous journey — from 4 p.m. Sunday until 12:30 a.m. Tuesday. And this morning, now home in Asheville after arriving just past midnight, I feel something I rarely feel: my age. 

The reason is in part due to my poor planning. I failed to reserve a comfortable economy-class seat on the transatlantic portion. Yesterday at just after noon, I contorted myself into seat 25A on Lufthansa flight 444 (666 would have been a more appropriate flight number). 

The space was so tight that in order to get my knees locked into the back of the seat in front of me, I had to push my butt as far back in my seat as I could manage. In such a position, my upper body had no choice but to tilt forward. My head could not reach the headrest without lifting my chin to the ceiling, which is what I did for much of the 10 hours.

The Grand Inquisitors could not have produced a more effective instrument for torture. I don't know that I should expect special consideration for being 6'5" tall, but I do know that the seats are not designed for someone my height to travel without suffering. In fact, on a flight to Hawaii in 1990, I developed a blood clot in my lower left leg from sitting in a space that was too tight. 

The fact that long-haul flights can be hazardous to one's health manifests itself in a condition known as Deep Vein Thrombosis, also referred to as Economy Class Syndrome. DVT is the formation of a blood clot in a deep vein, caused by a number of factors, including immobility, which is what happens on cramped long-haul flights. In rare instances, DVT can lead to pulmonary embolism. 

There are ways to make long-haul flight tolerable and even comfortable without paying more. You could, of course, upgrade to business class. Crystal Cruises, for example, offers business class air upgrades on select Baltic and Mediterranean sailings, and these begin reasonably at an additional $999 each way. But I find it hard to justify the expense. Someone once said to me that opting for economy class over business is the "easiest money you'll ever make," and indeed paying an additional $2,000 to upgrade both ways comes out to about $100 per hour. 

Here are a few tips that will cost you much less, if anything.

  1. Choose an airline with a generous seat pitch. You can sort the chart at SeatGuru to review seat pitch. On its Boeing 777s, ANA (All Nippon Airlines), for example, provides a roomy 38-inch seat pitch in international economy. Near the bottom of the chart, American Airlines provides only a 30-inch seat pitch on its Boeing 767s. Lufthansa's seat pitch is 32 inches in international economy. You can also check seat width at SeatGuru.
  2. Select your seat when you book your flight. If you're booking online and can't select a seat, call the airline.
  3. Obtain elite status with a preferred airline. If you are one of the carrier's elite customers, you can often select preferred seats, such as exit row and bulkhead seating in advance. In an exit row, I often have as much room in front of me as I do in the rare instances when I can fly business class. Also, some airlines, such as Delta, will upgrade its elite passengers to business when economy class is oversold on international flights. 
  4. Drink lots of water, get up and move and wear compression hose. These tactics will help you avoid swelling and discomfort and potential clotting. 
During the last two years, I have crossed the Atlantic more than 12 times, and most of my flights have been good ones, even comfortable ones. Yesterday was the exception, and I vowed to never let that happen again.

Got a tip? Please leave a comment.

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At Copenhagen Airport

It's not yet clear to me as to where the bomb threat is aimed. I am now inside Terminal One at Copenhagen International Airport. It is crowded but not chaotic. Police have set up a few blockades outside the airport, but traffic is being allowed in and out. Police are also prohibiting people to pass to the train station underneath the airport, indicating the threat is at the train station.

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Bomb Threat At Copenhagen Airport

A reported bomb threat at Copenhagen's International Airport has stopped trains traveling to the airport. I am on one of those trains, and we've stopped one stop shy of the airport (at Tarnby). All trains and transport to the airport has been cancelled until further notice. A flight attendant headed to the airport on my train said in 11 years of traveling to and from the airport, he has never experienced such or heard of previous bomb threats at the airport.

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Airport Transfer: Civitavecchia To FCO

Cruise ship transfers from Civitavecchia to Rome's Fiumicino (FCO) international airport can be more than $180 per person - by bus. The cost for seven sharing a private van booked at www.airportconnections.it was $55 per person and could have been less on a per person basis had we filled the private bus to capacity. There are cheaper ways to make the one-hour transfer, but our transfer was reasonable and comfortable.

The lesson: Coordinate transfers with other passengers before leaving home or once on board to save a bundle.

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Wind Surf Question Of The Day: Will You Marry Me?

Facing a gorgeous sunset over Corsica in Wind Surf's wake, Mark, from Mercer Island, Washington, asked Mozelle, his girlfriend of six years, to be his wife - in front of a deckful of passengers.

Much applause as Mozelle ran to Mark, who was rising from one knee, and jumped into his arms. "Six years ago, Windstar gave me the best vacation of my life," says Mark of a cruise on Windstar in Mexico. There was never any doubt of popping the question, he says. "The only question was when and where." And where better, he adds, than a ship that gave Mark and Mozelle such fond memories? Now they have one more memory to add to their list.

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View From Wind Surf: Breakfast In Corsica

An idyllic morning in Porto Vecchio, Corsica - as seen from our breakfast table on Wind Surf. Nearly all of our dining has been al fresco, including dinners at the two evening venues, Candles and Le Marche. Last night, as Wind Surf sailed from Elba, we dined by (electric, but convincing) candlelight aft at Candles. A nearly full moon reflected off the water as our waiter served us a grilled-to-perfection filet mignon with baked potato and all the toppings. The outdoor grill, with steaks sizzling, sets a nice atmosphere. Again, Windstar has been called the industry "most romantic cruise line," and dining al fresco contributes to that romantic ambience.

The night before, we dined on fresh seafood, with a good selection of shellfish also, at Le Marche, an intimate outdoor venue on the upper deck aft. Windstar sails warm-weather destinations, so evenings are comfortable with only a long-sleeve shirt or a wrap.

Entertainment is also offered outdoors. Last night, there was wide participation in "Name That Tune," a team exercise to pencil in the titles and composers of ten popular tunes. The team that correctly guessed the most received a bottle of champagne, and, of course, there was dancing afterward. At midnight, quite a few people were still enjoying sailing under the stars, not wanting to part with the night's beauty. This morning dawned a new day, however, in yet another beautiful place.

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Yes, I Am On The Tacky Tourist Train In Elba

For €5, the tourist(y) train provides a good island overview. The recorded narration is only audible enough to be annoying, but in a charming Italian sort of way. The driver, however, was extremely friendly, funny and bilingual. Fun and some good history. Even Napoleon would have enjoyed it.

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Wind Surf: Best Parking Place In Portoferraio

Down the gangway and into Portoferraio, Italy, on the island of Elba, Napoleon's exile (no sign of him during our visit - next stop, Saint Helena?). That's the great thing about small ship cruising, easy access to small, untouristed destinations. For those making landfall here in the non-Napoleonic era, internet access is available directly across the street from the pier (€1.50 for 15 minutes) and practically next door, arguably the world's creamiest gelato, made from "fresh milk from bio-farms" (€2 for a small and delicious cone).

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